American Bistro Cru updates a classic Brookside dining destination

By Pete Dulin

Brookside couple, residents, and restaurant owners Hannah Koenig and Avery Bailey knew that Cru (128 W. 63rd St.) should focus on serving its neighborhood’s needs. Previous anchor tenant Michael Forbes Bar and Grille closed in mid-2024. Owner Forbes Cross retired and his restaurant’s closure left a short-lived dining void. Opening an 80-seat bistro and bar in the space on January 31st presented a grand opportunity for Cru and a commitment to its neighbors.

Cru’s owners knew the neighborhood and community. “Our vision was to bring things that would work for Brookside diners. We’re approachable and affordable, not avant-garde,” said Koenig.

Koenig and Bailey first met working at a Country Club Plaza restaurant and later married. Bailey was the general manager at Bella Napoli for seven years and a partner in that Brookside business. With Cru, the couple make their debut as independent restaurant owners.

“When the space became available, it was the right place at the right time. Our vision was to open an American bistro with European influences that felt like an extension of the community,” said Koenig. “The space has been here for a long time. We wanted Cru to feel like it’s been part of the neighborhood.”

They invested in a light cosmetic update to the flooring, painted the interior white, installed new lighting fixtures, and replaced appliances. Otherwise, they opted to forgo major renovation.

The main dining room feels as crisp as fresh linen sheets. Late winter afternoon light brightens the space. A floor-to-ceiling display of wines along a wall suggests abundance, a beloved quality among Americans. The library of wines from Italy, California and other wine-producing regions lends an air of tasteful possibilities within tantalizing reach.

Chef de cuisine Thomas Luna, previously with Corvino, once worked with area Amish farmers to bring their produce to the Kansas City market. His combination of culinary skills and experience aligns with Cru’s emphasis on sourcing produce and ingredients from local and regional farmers and purveyors. Natasha Bailey leads the cheese program at Cru.

Within two months, several menu items have emerged as neighborhood favorites. Top-sellers include the steak frites, hearty risotto with a mushroom walnut ragu, sage miso butter, and Italian sausage, and pork schnitzel. Guests wet their whistle with espresso martinis, a caffeinated cocktail to ease winter’s harshness.

Other selections include an appetizer of baked Wooly Rind, a sheep’s milk fromage from Green Dirt Farm served with walnut, fig, and Amish honey apply chips. Ribollita, a hearty Tuscan stew of cannellini beans and greens with Grana Padano hints at those European influences. Roast chicken perks up with fennel velouté (a velvety French sauce), country grits, herb oil, and Aleppo pepper.

Vegetarian options include mushroom croquette, winter citrus salad, and a hefty grilled cheese that pairs perfectly with the soup. Let’s talk about the soup. Made with gently-smoked San Marzano tomatoes, the soup is rich with umami and subtle acidity. A blend of dried herbs and, intriguingly, a drizzle of coconut cream enhances and balances the flavors.

As a family-friendly restaurant, Cru has a kid’s menu and service ready to serve guests.

A new venture involves continuous learning and adaptation. A delayed shipment of a temperature-controlled refrigerator for the bar required pausing another plan. Once ready, Cru will launch its retail program at the bar accessible from the 63rd Street entrance.

Cru’s wine dinner program debuted with a February 24 event that highlighted “rare and hard to find” Swiss wines. The bistro plans to host one to two monthly wine dinners, featuring a wine exporter or winemaker. A brunch menu will appear in spring.

“Every bottle on our wine menu has a story,” said Koenig.

Apart from wine, craft cocktails, including non-alcoholic options, local draft beer, and dealcoholized wine round out the libations. Half-price wine bottles on Sundays introduce a cozy way to wind down the weekend.

Since its opening day, Cru has received an enthusiastic response from neighborhood guests eager to support a new local business in a familiar setting.

“We didn’t receive our liquor license until January 30. I wasn’t sure that we would open [the next day]. We sold out on opening night,” said Koenig. “I had to rush shipments on food, wine, and spirits. We didn’t anticipate such an excited response from the community.”

Enthusiasm hasn’t waned as guests from the neighborhood and Kansas City metro venture out to explore Brookside’s newest gem.

“We take care of people, both our guests and our team. The hospitality industry hasn’t always been the best environment for those working in it,” said Koenig, conscious of how she and Bailey lead their team.

The bistro owners welcome guests with warm hospitality. Koenig said, “We believe that great food and wine is for everyone. Cru is a comfortable, cozy place to share wine and food with people you love and care about.”