By Pete Dulin
Gerald Dunn of Dunn Deal BBQ has secrets but they cannot be revealed here. Brisket secrets, time-tested techniques and tips that Dunn learned in East Texas from his grandfather and pitmaster L.K. Dunn and his uncles. To divine those methods, you’ll have to taste the brisket and ribs that he smokes low and slow. Mind you, it’s grab-and-go with no seating. Dunn Deal BBQ hosts a ribbon cutting at 506 Main St., Grandview on Friday, May 10, and a grand opening on Saturday, April 27.
Okay, that wasn’t exactly a state secret. Dunn’s barbecue joint quietly opened on March 30, refining its operations and serving Dunn’s specialties on Fridays and Saturdays, 11 am-4 pm. Meanwhile, Dunn’s full-time role keeps him quite busy. Since 1997, he has served as the director of entertainment of the American Jazz Museum’s famed Blue Room in the historic 18th and Vine District. He’s also the band leader of The Jazz Disciples.
Dunn Deal BBQ operates in the former location of Lueck’s Barbecue & General Store. Proprietor and pitmaster Casey Lueck died on February 27, 2023, leaving a hole in a community who recognized and celebrated his passion for barbecue.
Grandview Economic Development Director David Carranza, who knew of Dunn’s barbecue expertise, suggested that he open a restaurant in the space already associated with mouthwatering barbecue.
Dunn studied the restaurant’s layout and possibilities. He spoke with Ollie Gates, Sr. of Gates Bar-B-Q, one of Kansas City’s barbecue institutions, before making his decision.
“Mr. Gates told me, ‘you know it’s hard work.’ I thought long and hard about it before opening. When the opportunity came, I jumped into it,” says Dunn.
Kansas City’s barbecue pitmaster lineage includes luminaries such as Gates and Henry Perry, who many consider the “Father of Kansas City barbecue.” Dunn sought to introduce his approach, a style he learned growing up in East Texas.
Here’s another secret. Not all Texas barbecue is the same. Regional style matters.
“Central Texas barbecue is hot right now. Terry Black’s Barbecue, Kreuz Market, and Franklin Barbecue are places familiar to most people who like Texas-style brisket,” says Dunn. “Regional Texas barbecue varies based on the wood indigenous to the area. Central Texas uses a lot of post oak. Northeast Texas is a mixture of hickory and post oak. West Texas uses more mesquite.”
Dunn leans mostly on hickory As desired, he’ll cut in some pecan and post oak, a type of white oak that produces a mild smoke and less soot. He favors specific types of hickory, shagbark hickory and pignut hickory. You’ll have to visit and ask him, if you wish to know why.
“You got to know how to use them. If you cook with bad smoke, then the food’ll be bad. I bring the temperature down low. It allows you to work in the smoke and develop a smoke ring,” says Dunn.
Cooking time ranges from 8 to 12 hours. Ultimately, it depends on the temperature of the cooker and the quality of the meat. Factors a pitmaster must carefully consider, making adjustments as needed to yield desired texture and taste on a consistent basis.
“There’s no right or wrong way. Different people have different techniques,” says Dunn. “I like to know the meat’s been smoked. Just a little to complement the meat.”
Brisket is Dunn’s forte. He applies a generous coat of salt, pepper, and garlic before laying down his custom-made rub. His menu also offers ribs, pulled pork, chicken, turkey, and sausage with classic sides of coleslaw, baked beans, and potato salad. No burnt ends for now.
Before expanding the menu, Dunn wants to concentrate on producing good presentable food. “I’m looking for repeat customers, or else I wouldn’t put my family name behind this. My name is paramount. I stand behind my product.”
Early supporters have lined up to help Dunn succeed. “I have so many people to thank. My wife, Lisa, David Carranza, Mayor Leonard Jones and the whole City of Grandview, my landlord Kevin Verhulst, my social media team, and Kathy Feist [Telegraph publisher], who has been a godsend. The other downtown merchants and restaurateurs have been welcoming. Everybody has their niche. I’m happy to be part of the community.”
Dunn leans back in his seat, preparing for the weekend ahead. The front room of his restaurant displays a few trophies and ribbons won from contests. The ribbons are a reminder of how far he’s come.
He has so far to go awaiting him. After all, the secret’s out.