By Pete Dulin
St. Joseph, the easternmost outpost of the Pony Express mail service, remains a destination where day-trip explorers can head for local beer, history, and a bellyful of good food.
River Bluff Brewery co-founders Chris Lanman and Edison Derr continue a long tradition of brewing in St. Joseph. Established in 2018 at 1224 Frederick Avenue, their business occupies a building that has been home to two pre-Prohibition breweries. Located an hour north of Kansas City, River Bluff has revived a brewing heritage mere blocks from the sweeping Missouri river and bluffs that are its namesake.
Lanman and Derr retained the historical feel and character of the 1853 building originally built to be a brewery. While not accessible to the public, the basement still features several hand-dug lager cellars once used for aging beer beneath Frederick Avenue. Today, River Bluff’s spacious taproom and brewery present an industrial feel with exposed wood, metal, and brick.
“Combining all these things, we believe our brand came together and [proved] popular enough to open a second location in the River Market of Kansas City,” said Lanman. “The two locations differ significantly but also tie together. The juxtaposition of wood and rusty metal, the warmth of the tasting room with an industrial feel, while different, tie both locations together.”
Prior to River Bluff’s investment, the St. Joseph building was on the verge of demolition. The owners rebuilt the space to preserve a historic landmark and the brewery’s original roots. “It had no roof for eighteen years. The cast iron window frames had no glass. The brick was deteriorating, said Lanman.
Another testament to the city’s brewing heritage includes a vintage red Goetz Country Club Beer sign mounted near River Bluff’s taproom bar. St. Joseph was once home to Goetz Brewing Company, a major brewery that competed with rivals in Kansas City and closed all operations in 1976. Retired River Bluff assistant brewer Jerry Porter is the great-grandson of M.K. Goetz, who founded the historic brewery. Porter’s father worked at the Goetz facility in Kansas City.
Brewing history pours into nearly every crevice and foundation of the city. Many citizens and relatives once worked for Goetz Brewing. During happy hour, guests might meet local beer historian Bob Fitzpatrick who spins tales of long-lost breweries and characters. Naturally, a beer or two helps the conversation flow.
Consider trying Sandy Dunes Belgian-style Ale, a flagship unfiltered beer with peppery and fruity notes. Crafted by brewmaster Morgan Fetters and the brewing team, the beer won a 2024 World Beer Cup Gold Award in the American-Belgo-Style Ale category and a silver medal in 2019 at the Great American Beer Fest. Other recommended beers include Union Lager and River Cream Ale for light drinking in warm weather. Speedliner IPA and Club Country Malt, a tribute to the classic Goetz Country Club Beer, are popular beers on tap.
The City of St. Joseph is named after French fur trader Joseph Robideaux. He established Le Poste du Serpent Noir, the Blacksnake Hills Trading Post, at the mouth of Blacksnake Creek in 1827. Robideaux led development of the area’s river bottom and bluffs and modeled the settlement after a European-style city. Remnants of the city’s vibrant, multi-layered history can be found from modern-day taverns to local restaurants to cultural institutions. While visiting, seek out St. Joseph’s numerous museums and galleries including the Pony Express National Museum, Black Archives Museum, and Glore Psychiatric Museum.
Hungry yet? Grab a bite to eat at Cafe Belle Epoque (1141 Frederick Avenue), located a half-block from the brewery. This French-style bistro offers tempting dishes with inspirations from around the world.
“Their menu is fantastic, worldly while simultaneously comforting,” said Lanman. “The beef medallions with bèarnaise sauce are my favorite in town. On weekends, they deliver to the brewery, but their finely-decorated dining room is worth a visit.”
Boudreaux’s (224 N. Fourth Street) is another local staple serving Cajun cuisine and River Bluff Brewing’s beer. Their house salad and dressing is “widely celebrated.” Next, explore gumbo, fried alligator, po boy sandwiches, jambalaya, or seafood court bouillon. Lanman cites the chicken creole as a brewery favorite. Specialties include ribeye and filet steaks.
Prefer to hunker down and relax at the brewery? Nearby Pizza Tascio, founded in St. Joseph and now available throughout Kansas City, slings its award-winning New York-style slices and full pizzas. Guests may order from a QR code for delivery.
RC’s Lunch Car also offers QR code ordering with delivery to your table at the taproom. The Schneeflock fried bologna sandwich is an offering not often seen on menus today. The Pulled Pork Sando goes Pacific islander with the addition of sweet Hawaiian huli-huli sauce that also sounds intriguing.
Lanman said, “RC’s is a St. Joseph favorite serving up high-end burgers, sandwiches, wings, and other delights. Our regulars swear by the house-smoked pastrami-reuben. Pile on the hand-cut French fries on this sandwich. It’s one of St. Joe’s best.”
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